Having just knocked out the foam sink spacer in the bathroom counter top, I’ll throw all the 2x4's back in the scrap pile and smooth over the counter’s rough corners.
Creating concrete counters is a 1-2 day setup process followed by a good four-day wait. Start out with bare cabinets. Cut out any holes needed for plumbing and secure the frame to the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Now, figure out how wide these counters need to extend. Cut plywood squares 1 1/4" too big on all sides excluding the wall-facing ends. Measure the height of the counters and cut supporting boards so that a leg extends down every foot or so along the counter rim. Cutting these legs precisely right might be tricky. The weight of the concrete will push them down, yes, but having the legs level and perpendicular to the counter prevents the curing concrete from cracking. Since prying these boards off later might crack the concrete, screw them in from the top. Using screws throughout this project could greatly decrease the amount of time spent laboring and cursing over it.
Now, find enough 2x4's to span the length of the plyboard rim. Cut accordingly and place boards on their 2" sides, making a retaining wall for the concrete mix. Remember, use screws. If rounded corners are what you want, find thin plastic or something along the lines of t-shirt box cardboard and pack sand in the triangle between the curved board and 2x4's. Make sure the curved material is no lower than the rim boards. In fact, just keep everything flush with the rim boards to keep trowling simple.
Next, cut lengths of metal rebar for a two-layer grid along the surface. So, measure the width and length of the counter tops, taking into account the lengths between the sink hole and wall (you’ll want a lot of support around the sink). Make sure to use a grinding blade for this job. Once the pieces are cut, space them evenly over the counter surface in a grid pattern. Keep the bottom layer on bottom and the top layer on top; no weaving. Naturally, the tighter the grid spacing, the stronger the structure. For the kitchen counters, our grid left 4-5"squares. Once the rebar grid is in place, sink 1" screws at all the cross sections. Leave each screw just barely screwed in, but make sure they are shorter than the rim boards. Find some good, bendable wire and cut quite a few 1/2-1" lengths. Wrap the wire around each screw so that it hugs and lifts the bottom layer rebar at least ½" above the plywood. Pliers make an easy job of twisting and tightening the wire wraps. Fasten the upper layer to the bottom in the same manner. Before acting further, lean on the rebar to ensure stability. If the grid falls under your weight, it won’t hold concrete.
Cut a stopper, we used Styrofoam, for the sink hole. Make sure it fits snugly. To keep the stopper surface level with the rim boards, use a hand saw to shave off the excess. This is the last prep. step. You are ready to pour the concrete.
For easy staining purposes, use white cement. Mix 3 parts sand, 2 parts silica sand, 2 parts cement, 2 parts fine gravel, about 1 quart of acrylic bonding agent, and enough water to make the mixture thick and soupy. If you don’t have access to a cement mixer or if the counter is small, use a short hoe (or shorten a garden hoe) and wheel barrel. Pour ingredients into said wheel barrel or the cement mixer and mix until even and soupy. Add as much dye as you see fit. Use a bucket or coffee can to transport the mix to the counter mold. Pour and trowel smooth. Use a long board or some flat edge to level the surface.
Now for the wait. You’ll notice the color lightening after a few days curing. This is normal. Wait at least three days before removing the rim boards and leg supports. Wet the counters and keep a moist rag handy for re-application. Use a grinder for the rough surfaces and sand smooth. Along the rim and maybe even on the top surface, you might find bubble impressions or pock marks. To fill these, throw in a little of all the ingredients into a small container and mix thoroughly. Make this batch at least, if not more, soupy than the initial counter mix. Before applying, wet the area. Use rubber gloves to rub the mix roughly into the holes. Wait another two days and grind and sand the surface to suite your taste.
Finally, unless the supporting screws penetrate the plywood underneath, the foam spacer should knock right out. Set the sink in, hook up the water lines, and caulk the seems. Stain and seal the surface. Consider natural alternatives, such as a grape juice or carrot stain with a linseed oil and beeswax sealant. Linseed oil and beeswax will have require re-application, but most conventional alternatives rely on toxic chemicals. It’s up to you. Kids will have a blast helping out. Just have an extra sponge and juice bowl nearby for any who care to join in.
Allow the sealant a day at least to dry. Find a dark corner to test the sealant. Fruit, believe it or not, is most likely to stain the concrete. Drip or rub some fruit juice on your chosen spot. Wipe the surface clean and note whether a mark remains. If so, apply another sealant coat. If not, enjoy this completed masterpiece.

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